Beeching is famous for his wrecking of the railways in Britain in the 1960's but, in France, the nineteenth century witnessed what must rank as one of the worst excesses of cultural vandalism ever seen in the Western world. On this occasion it was the expansion of the railways that caused the problem.
Established in the middle of the 7th century, the Abbey of Saint-Pierre at Moissac flourished in the 11th and 12th centuries due to its affiliation to the enormously wealthy and powerful Abbey of Cluny. This was the Golden Age of not only Gothic architecture but, also of sculpture.
The church's South West portal still retains, more or less intact, some superb sculpture from this period.
The sculptures on either side too, have come through the post revolution rampage reasonably well.
...... and this one of the prophet, Jeremiah, reminds me a bit of those at Chartres, though it's less sophisticated.
Perhaps what are even more remarkable are the poly-chrome wooden sculptures inside the church. These have had to survive woodworm, deathwatch beetle, rot, fire, as well as vandalism and theft (wooden sculptures are much easier to steal, as witnessed by all the medieval wood sculpture you find in museums, such as the Burrell, all over the western world). This group depicting the flight from Egypt is from the 15th century.
This polychrome crucifixion, however, dates from the same period as the stone sculpture on the church's exterior; 1130 - 1140. Astounding.
Generally, though, Moissac seems most well known for its cloister.
Once upon a time this must have been wonderful. Sadly every single sculpture on the capitals has been disfigured. You can still see the quality of the carving in the decorative patterns but all of the faces have lost their features.
The local population may well have had years of pent up anger against the Church of Rome, but what a pity they took it out on the sculpture.
However.......... a monumental act of vandalism occurred in the mid nineteenth century when a railway track was laid slap through the middle of this historic world heritage monument (I can almost imagine the Gallic shrug as the nameless official responsible responds with the universal answer to everything - tant pis?)
The plan outside helpfully shows the path of the railway through the original group of buildings (the grey line on the left of the picture).
I simply could not believe it. Not only were several historic buildings brutally torn down, but all the qualities of peace and tranquility intrinsic to a cloister have been destroyed forever, as the roaring, thunderous vibrations reverberate through the very heart of this once so special place.
.....though hopefully, perhaps for some, it still is..........
